![]() So I tried that, it’s not very fun to get Particular, I keep seeing people say crackshaft Many answers! But I’m hearing one thing in So I got to all the forums I can find with, of corse, so Off the road and wait a few minutes before it would Moving, other times I would have to put it in nuetralĪnd try to start it back up, other times I had to pull Sometimes It would cut itself back on if I was Random and it ended up getting a lot worse. The point where I could drive the Jeep for about halfĪn hour before it would start doing this. Jeepfpr about 30 minutes, and while I’m drivingĭown the road at 55 mph, the engine just stalls for a So I’m going to share myĮxperience and hopefully help someone else out. Ok, so I’m a mechanic myself and I had a 96 grandĬherokee with a 4.0 straight 6 cylinder with 225k. So it means all modern cars are basically useless after 20 years even with good maintenance because of all the electronics. I think it's quite possible many of the solder connections are prone to stress fractures like this switch was. I found a video online that showed how to take the switch apart and re-solder the circuit board and problem fixed. My jeep, none of the buttons would work for power windows except the driver's side controls. Might help but with cars being so electronic now there is so many things that can go wrong. I'm not sure why the cam sensor is so fragile, but a mechanic told me if you are replacing one replace them both. If one of the wires in the coil breaks (almost always high voltage side), strange things happen. The electricity goes to a fairly resilient thick wired coil that generates a large magnetic field, and the fluctuations in this magnetic field create the high voltage in the other side of the coil. No electricity goes directly from the battery to the spark plugs. The coil may still work when it is cool but when it gets hot a gap may develop which prevents the electricity from doing it's thing. The high voltage coil is of very thin wiring and if there is a weak spot it can break. I don't know why the cam sensor is so finicky, but in the old days we all knew about coils breaking. (99 and earlier in-line 6's only, I don't know what the v-8's and such have). It depends how it's dying, but if it's going say from 2000 rpm to zero all at once the cam sensor (which is actually in the distributor) and the coil should both be replaced as the first attempt. The tech told me that he was 100% sure that the problem was that sensor Even though the dealer ended up charging me to check it I recommend you take it to the dealer to avoid guessing. I changed it a week ago and thank God its running like a champ. The dealer had them for 180.00 but he told me as long as it was Mopar original I could buy it anywhere He mentioned that I could get one for 20 bucks on line but he does not recommend it. ![]() The tech told me that please if I was going to do it myself to not buy cheap parts and buy the original MOPAR ones. The dealer was going to charge me 325.00 to do the job but I got the part for 90.00 on ebay. Finally it did while connected to their computer and it was the Crank position sensor. Since the problem wasn't continuous they had to keep it over night until the problem occurred so they charged me 85.00. I called the JEEP dealer and they said that they would not charge me for the diagnostic if it was something simple. The computer in the auto parts gave me 90 possible problems, I minus well buy a new car with the $ I was going to spend. I had the same problem with my 2000 Grand Cherokee Laredo, 177k miles it starting shutting off while running.
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